Q. Have a GE dryer that is causing me some trouble. We've noticed in the past few days that the dryer lint is getting into the air and is accumulating also on the vent that goes to the outdoors. I don't know how the dryer is (it came with the house that we bought about 5 years ago). The vent is also 5 years old and has never been vacuumed or cleared out. I am concerned that it is a fire hazard (and not great to breathe). I tried disconnecting the vent from the dryer but the person who installed this really jammed the vent into the dryer (and I didnt see any clamps). I guess my question is: what would happen if I really pulled the vent out hard - will I do damage? If I decide to hire someone to fix this, what is the best serviceperson to do so (a HVAC contractor, an air duct cleaning professional, a plumber, a handyman, etc). And what should I expect them to do beyond cleaning the vent out (ie. should it be replaced, etc.). I appeciate any word of wisdom - I'm on a budget and have a new baby at home :)

A. A handy man can do this , but the heating guy ,would be better, he can clean it all out and make sure it free,from lint . i would suggest you get a service plan in place maybe every 6ths he cleans it out ,and make sure it working right

Q. Ok, here is what happened. My fiancé and I rent an apartment from my fiancé’s dad. My fiancé has renters insurance (Had not added me yet, I had my own before I moved in). His Dad has insurance on the building as well, 4 units. Well, my fiancé was heating cooking oil on the stove to make fries. I already know it was a dumb thing, and if I had known he was doing that, I would have turned it off. Well, we were in and out BBQing, and next thing we know…..our smoke alarms are going off. We come running in, and our kitchen is in flames! My bf got to the fire extinguisher (also part of our renters insurance policy), and got the fire out. We had a lot of damage from that short minute. Long story short, we were told our renters insurance would cover any items that were damaged (kitchen utensils, food, dishes, etc) It would also cover any cleaning, (dry cleaning, laundry from smoke, electronics to be cleaned, and our home cleaned pretty much). Then we were told his Dad’s insurance would cover the structure (the stove, microwave, counters, cupboards, lighting, paint, and carpet cleaning). His Dad’s insurance adjuster came out, and saw everything. Then said since my bf’s Dad is a contractor (he built the apartments), that they would pay him to do the work. Well, his Dad got a call yesterday from his insurance company poking around, and asking for contact info for my bf. It kinda sounds like they want to come after my bf for the damage? We are paying his Dad’s deductable and our own. I kinda thought the point of having insurance was so when accidents like this happen, it’s covered? Is his Dad’s insurance aloud to contact us in any way? What would they need to talk to us for? Can they sue us for the damage? I have never been through something like this and we are really stressing. Our insurance has already issued us a check for our stuff, and it’s been less than 2 weeks. GO ALLSTATE!  I’m not sure who his Dad is through? I am just really wondering if they can come after my fiancé for damages, when everyone had insurance? Any help please? Thank you!

A. Your bf's renters insurance covers his stuff. The landlord's insurance covers HIS stuff. The landlord's insurance company WILL go after the guy who caused the fire - your bf. Legally, they are entitled and obligated to. They're going to sue him for it. His renters insurance will likely pay out the judgement. Dumb of you guys to pay dad's deductible - because you'll have to pay it a SECOND time, to dad's insurance company, and then they'll write a check to dad for the deductible. So. Yes, landlord's insurer can contact anyone they feel is responsible for the damage, and can -and WILL - sue for reimbursement. I HOPE you don't get named in the suit, because YOU are not covered under bf's renters insurance.

Q. Buying a house, and the home inspection has uncovered some potential issues. It's been a real pain in the butt to get someone to go out and review the inspector's findings. I have posted the report with pictures on profiles.yahoo.com/chuckynjwvu The projectis very time-sensetive. I need to know if I should even bother buying that house. Thanks

A. Try the link below and start calling numbers, someone will know someone that can help you. Good luck. At the very least, the problems involved should save you enough money to put towards resolving the issues. If you don't feel comfortable, move on. Buying a home is a 30 year investment, and the market value will increase, unless it BURNS to the ground. I tried to look at your pictures but the files won't open. You may need to retry, or e-mail them to me, I'll take a look and give you an opinion. Background: In and around construction my whole life, 3 years working for Connectiv, 2 years in school studying electrical construction, 15 years flooring, commercial and residential, 2 years as production manager for a mold remediation, fire and water damage restoration company, currently the division manager of a large flooring distributor / contractor. Electric, plumbing, framing, concrete, damage that can result from fire and water, and poor workmanship. I can't fix it for you. But I'll give you an honest professional evaluation.

Q. Had a house fire, hired a restoration company to clean and repair fire, smoke and water damage. Who is supposed to the the buliding permits?

A. The permits are the responsibility of the contractor. They have to be licensed to do the work and they are responsible for furnishing the details of the work as well as doing the work to code. Period

Q. Who is the best restoration contractor in the Atlanta area?

A. Good answer Robert W. I'll keep you in mind as you are close by in Monroe. And Rudy with your answer there are a few edits I would like to make. To call the BBB is a GREAT idea. All contractors should be first checked out with them to make sure they are not a "fly by night" operation. Many property owners get taken advantage of by the less than honest contractors that are out there. And especially now with the economy down turn there are many people calling themself a "restoration contractor". Fortunately I was in this business before the economy went south. But as far as going with the restoration company that the insurance company suggests may or may not be the best idea. Think of it this way; There is a reason they are making this suggestion and in whose interest will this serve? The best advice I can give is ask the contractor if they are licensed and insured. Make sure they post a permit on your property for the restoration. And I believe most important of all is ask for many many references and follow up with calls to these references. Sometimes a reference is given with the idea the homeowner will not follow up to check out the reference. And lastly I am not going to leave this forum without throwing out a pitch. Google the name of Stephens Restoration and Consulting which is located in Gwinnett and give them a call. You will be glad you called them and ultimately glad you elected Stephens restoration and Consulting as your contractor.

Q. The house that we rent out had a fire. I've already informed the insurance company, there's an adjuster coming out, and the tenants are staying somewhere else. If anyone else has been in this situation, I'm wondering if there's any helpful advice for us. Should we drive 10 hours to check things out? If so, when? How many repair/restoration estimates should I try to get aside from the one my insurance uses? I'd planned on doing other work to the home. Can I have a contractor do that work at the same time and split the billing appropriately, or will that screw up the insurance and tax stuff? Please provide any additional ideas. We've never had a big insurance claim and I don't want to overlook stuff. We had previously planned on having the tenants out by April, doing some renovations, and putting it up for sale. I don't know how much this will change things. One bedroom is destroyed and there's a lot of smoke damage throughout the upstairs.

A. When the work is completed make sure you have a mold inspector come out and do a test to clear the house before you sell it. The water damage following the fire can cause a liability for you and you want to make sure that the insurance company is covering it before they close your claim out. Also take lots of before and after photos for the prospective buyers. When you tell them about the previous fire damage it will make it easier to show them where the damage was and how it was fixed. Get LOTS of estimates. Each contractor will also help you think of issues you may not have considered. This is an ideal time to remodel - the insurance company will work with you. Just make sure this will not interfere with your rental loss benefit (if you have it).

Q. On Saturday night, at 3am, my neighbors house caught on fire. The fire spread along my fence, melted the siding on my garage, slightly warped the structure, did various damage to the side of my house, lawn, driveway, smoke damage to house, and some other smaller items. What is the best way to pursue an insurance claim to get the maximum amount of reimbursement to do the repairs I need and clean the house of char smell to my standards and specifications? How do I not get screwed by the insurance companies that only care about their bottom line? And will my deductible go up because my neighbors house fire did damage to my property?

A. Contact your insurance company. They will assign you an adjuster. An adjuster's job is not to screw you and save the bottom line like everyone thinks. Their job is to tell you what you are covered for and to manage the claim. However, since you don't seem to trust insurance companies I suggest you get a name of a well trusted contractor in the area and have them prepare an estimate and provide that to your adjuster and have the adjuster work out an agreed price with the contractor. That way you know that the work the contractor is doing will not cost you more than what the insurance is paying you (except your deductible or anything you don't have coverage for). I would suggest a fire restoration company, ones that do both repairs to buildings and clean contents, etc. Keep track of anything extra you had to buy and save save save receipts. If you have any contents damaged, do not throw them out or start repairs on your home until the adjuster tells you to or to prevent further damage. I would start making a list of any damaged items, check online stores, etc. to get estimate replacement costs for these items. However typically homeowners only have actual cash value coverage for your contents. This means if you have a 10 year old refridgerator that was ruined in the fire, the insurance will only pay you for a 10 year old refridgerator, not a brand new one. And if you aren't certain on anything just ask the adjuster to explain why he's paying you what he is, thats his job. And I agree your deductible will not go up unless you request it be changed, however your premium might. I suppose you can file a claim with the neighbor's insurance however you will be put back into your previous condition faster if you make a claim with your own insurance and they will do all the fighting with the other insurance company for you.

Q. My brother is paying for siding on my home! (he is a wonderful brother ,by the way) He told me to get estimates. for windows also. I dont know what to ask for! I need the old siding removed,and i want to keep the price down, since he is paying for it! Please Help! Thank you! The first answer that i recieved from John was fantastic! Thank you So Much! This is an old house at least 50 yrs. old. My dad and mom built it! They had no experience building! It is a plain ranch type home with wood siding .the wood is really moldy and is roten. Ineed to know what type siding to go with? there are many types! I not able to wrap the house myself. ( i wish i could,I'd like to !) But physically i am not able! That is the main reason why we are hiring someone! I am checking around the neighborhood,to see if good work was done! It is not easy finding someone you can trust! I will consider all advice given to me! And thank you so much! I would like to get it done during the summer, I have heard that the windows are put in first! So i know that will take time! Thank a 3rd time!!!! WoW JOHN! You are great! After all that imformation,NOW COME AND DO THE WORK! LOL Take care! All OF YOU will sleep well tonight ! Knowing you helped this unexperienced woman!! Sorry thats inexperienced!

A. Read below for choosing contractors. Do more research on siding and removal through google/yahoo searches. If you do have the siding removed, have the contractor give you an estimate on installing house wrap to the exterior under the new siding. House Wrap: When you go out in bad weather, you wear a jacket to protect yourself from rain, wind and other elements. A home should be protected in the same fashion. Without a protective barrier, the home can get wet, which can lead to wood rot and mold growth. Is there a better way to protect a home from these elements? Using a house wrap during the framing stage of construction will prevent moisture from entering the home. This will protect the house from rotting and from developing mold or fungus. Additionally, air infiltration through the framed walls will be blocked. The "best practice" for protecting your home from wind and water while allowing it to "breathe" is to install a layer of "house wrap" made of a thin layer of spun-bonded polyethylene. Here's how to do it: Start at a corner, but make sure you have 2 to 3 feet of house wrap to overlap the corner. Wrap it around the corner and continue nailing or stapling as you move. Wrap the entire building, including door and window openings. Use button nails or minimum 1-inch staples to fasten the house wrap every 12 to 18 inches along the vertical studs. Make an inverted "y" cut, or "martini glass cut," over the window openings. Fold the flaps in through the opening of the two sides and the sill and fasten them inside. Many builders do not install a drainage plane at all. The builders who do often install "building paper," a sheet of asphalt-impregnated felt paper, to protect the house from exterior water penetration. Unlike house wrap, however, building paper doesn't effectively reduce air infiltration because it has many seams, while house wrap is a continuous sheet with minimal overlaps. House wrap produces a breathable, weather-resistant barrier that will reduce energy costs and prevent wind-driven rain from entering the walls of a home. =============================================== Windows: If you are actually going to have the windows replaced, the best way to do this is replace the whole window including the frames. Have the windows removed to the rough opening. Many contractors will tell you this is not necessary. If the house is quite old, the space between the rough oping and the window frame is likely not insulated and sealed properly. Leaving the existing window frames in will not eliminate drafts properly. Also, it allows you to see if there is may moisture damage to the structure that has to be repaired. Here is an excerpt from this link: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/retrofit How Do I Decide Between Retrofit or New Construction Windows? (By: Bill & Kevin Burnett) Q: What are the disadvantages to retrofit windows as opposed to the advantages of new-construction windows? I've been shopping for new windows for my home and have found that labor and materials for retrofit windows is about one-half the cost of new-construction windows. I understand that with retrofit windows the old window is removed and the new window is installed into the old window frame, which certainly cuts down on labor. However, is there a quality issue? Can there be more of a chance of leakage around the window with retrofitted windows? Retrofit installers swear by their product. My contractor said he won't install retrofit windows. What's a homeowner to do? A: Retrofit windows are installed into existing window frames. New-construction windows are secured to the frame of the house by nailing flanges. The cost difference is related to removal and repair of existing window trim and siding. The major advantage of flanged windows is that they are one integral unit that is easy for the contractor or homeowner to install plumb and square within a framed opening. Retrofit windows are installed into existing frames, and if those frames are not plumb or square, there may be problems. To install flanged windows the old windows must be completely removed. Exterior trim (and often interior trim) will have to be removed, exposing the framing so the new windows can be nailed or screwed to it. Siding will also need to be cut back so that the edge of the framing is exposed. If you have a stucco exterior, installation will require some stucco to be chipped or cut away, then patched after the new windows are installed. Trim must be reinstalled. Finally everything must be repainted. Sounds like a pretty big job, doesn't it? It is. Retrofit windows, on the other hand, use the existing frame as the opening in which to install the new windows. No trim removal, no stucco or siding to repair. A seemingly much simpler and cleaner job. It can be. So what to do? From our perspective it depends on the type of existing windows you have and the exterior trim and siding involved. Most of our experience has been with the double-hung wooden windows that are common in old homes. To install retrofits in this type of frame, the old sash is removed, stops are installed if necessary and the new unit is attached to the old wood frames with shims and screws. A little caulking around the joints and you're done. This type of installation, if done properly, will provide an airtight seal. If your existing windows are the steel casement windows used in the 1950s or the aluminum windows commonly used in the 1960s, '70s and '80s, we'd suggest you do some serious digging into the possibility of using retrofits. If we were in the market to retrofit these windows, we'd undertake major research, look at some existing installations and satisfy ourselves with the looks, method of installation and quality of these products. All this being said, we don't think we'd be happy with existing steel or aluminum frames with new window inserts unless we were convinced that the frames were covered and the installation was airtight. Tip: We've always found it better to install flanged windows with screws rather than nails. If minor adjustments have to be made to properly fit the window into the opening, it's much easier to remove a screw or two rather than pull a nail with a cat's paw. Use stainless steel or zinc-coated screws. =============================================== Selecting contractors: 1/ Look up local contractors first. work out form the closest to your location. If some you trust has had work done similar to yours, ask them about the contractor they used. If they were completely satisfied with their contractor(s), ask for their telephone number. 2/ Select at least 5 your are interested 3/ Do a google/yahoo search on each of the contractors you are interested in; look for praises (check who is writing the praises to see if they have any connection to the contractor google/yahoo search the people giving the praise or references) 4/ When you are satisfied with at least 3 contractors per job, have the give you written estimates with details of work to be done, terms, guarantee(s), cost of extras (how much do they charge if they find something not covered by the contract), paymant schedules if necessary and whatever else you can think of to protect yourself. 5/ If the contractor tries to pressure you into signing the contract immediately with a high deposit (more than 15%) reject that contractor. Be careful, high pressure can be someone who sounds very convincing, but has many reasons why you should sign on the dotted line NOW. 6/ It is always good to have another adult with you when a contractor inspects the work to be done. 7/ If you do not get at least 3 written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet) , go back to 1. repeat until you get written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet). Read the estimates over with some who has some knowledge of the work that has to be done. This may take longer than you thought; do not rush into it. Research, resaerch research, helps. When you are ready choose by being informed. Good Luck